I have been wanting to learn how to surf for a very long time. Yes, yes.. I tried to surfed a few times in my teens in New Smyrna Beach Florida when the waves were almost non existent and twice when I was in my 20ś in California. I was fearless and jumped right in. I have always had a love for water and participated in a fair amount of extreme sports in my 20ś.. but then things changes. I suffered a debilitating accident that left me with a neck injury in which I was unable to work or walk. The doctors, and there were a lot of them, told me I would probably never be able to work a regular job much less continue to do any of the sports I enjoyed.
I do not want to segway too much but what inspired me to not give up was a book my father had given me when I was young called ¨Winners Never Quit¨ by Phil Pepe. A good deal of the stories in this book are about athletes who had career ending injuries who were told they would never play sports again however they persevered through ¨pain and adversary to become great champions¨. It was a powerful book for me to read as a young child and it helped me to believe no matter what, as long as I work hard and was willing to push through any obstacles, I can achieve anything in my lifetime.
My injury left me bedridden and it took me 5 years to get back to work full time without having to wear some sort of pain management apporatice, go to weekly therapy appointments and gussle pain medication. It took me a few years more to be able to start playing sports again but I did it. As a young invincible athlete in their 20ś I was foolish at times as I sought out risky extreme sport trips thinking¨what could be the worse thing that could happen to me.. I could die¨.. never did I think about the fact that I could have an accident that would leave me bedridden, in severe pain and unable to live any similence of a normal life. I still have off and on pain from my neck injury however it is something that I have learned how to work around. And although now I look like a healthy and in decent shape +40 year old, I was left with a severe fear of heights and speed that along with my embarrassing lack of flexibility makings we deciding to take up surfing at this age a questionable decision and a great personal challenge.
As I stated earlier, I had been wanting to learn how to surf for years however I was living in the Bay Area and work was my life. I finally had an aha moment and decide to not only change my career but set a goal of moving down to San Diego to follow my dreams. One of those being learning to surf. So here I am today at 46 basically learning to surf for the first time..